Friday, October 25, 2013

Decorative Tiles


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    This week I want to share a fun and easy project.  We are going to be decorating white ceramic tiles with alcohol inks and stencils.  These decorative tiles make great art for gifts or to display in your home.  I went to my local DIY home store and bought tiles in three different sizes to experiment with, 4 1/4" x 4 1/4", 6" x 6", and 3" x 6".  These plain white glossy tiles don't cost very much so it is inexpensive to buy a bunch and have fun.
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    I started by cleaning the tile with rubbing alcohol and wiping it off with a clean rag.  I didn't want any dirt or dust on the tile.

    Then I chose three or four Adirondack ink colors and started dropping them onto the tile.  There are several different ways that you can blend the inks and get interesting designs.



  • You can turn the tile different directions until the inks run into each other adding more as you go until the tile is covered and the inks blend.
  • Dropping more ink into the ink that is already on the tile will create lighter spots and organic shapes.
  • You can add the Adirondack alcohol blending solution to lighten the colors and allow them to flow more easily.
  • You can use canned air or blow through a straw to blend and create interesting patterns as well.
  • A heat tool also will push the inks around to blend them and to dry them.

  • I used different combinations and kept working the inks until I was happy with the way that the background looked.
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    On some of the tiles I used a spray bottle with rubbing alcohol to add a fine mist to the ink in select areas. This creates speckles and light spots and will add nice patterns in the ink. You should do this in a well ventilated area or outside and avoid breathing in the alcohol to stay safe. 
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    At this point I let the tiles sit for a couple of days to make sure that the inks were completely set.

    I got out my Artistcellar stencils and had fun picking which stencil I wanted to go with which background.  I laid the stencil over the tile and using my black Faber-Castell Pitt Pen with the brush tip, I filled in the areas of the stencil that I wanted to use.  I used the whole stencil on some of the tiles and on others I only used part of the stencil.  I also used the black Pitt pen to add a word to one of the tiles.
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    This tile is 6" x 6". Explore
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    This tile is 4 1/4" x 4 1/4 ".
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    This tile is 3' x 6'.
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    This tile is 6' x 6'.
    This background was a bit dark for the black pen to show up so I went over the lines with a white Sakura Gelly Roll pen.  I also added hair with a water-based Sharpie Paint pen in white. I added color in the lips with a red and pink gelly roll pen and added some sparkles to her face with a clear Stardust gelly roll pen.

    I used these stencils on the tiles:

    Pari 
    Tumbling Pods
    Petite Pods
    Coy
    Hemp Flower
    Apparatus


    I am going to seal these tiles so that the inks don't lift off or get scratched.  I want them to be durable and last for a long time.  I'm still experimenting with what sealant works best for me, so I can't share that information yet.  I'll try and share later after I figure out what works the best.

    I have done some experimenting now with two different products.  I used Liquitex pouring medium and triple-thick crystal clear glaze spray by Krylon.  

    The spray is easier to use and worked well.  I followed the directions and put four layers on each tile.

    To use the Liquitex product, I set the tile slightly above a level surface and carefully poured on the medium.  It isn't always easy to get the whole surface covered without the pouring medium flowing off the edges.  I let it cure for several days.

    I tested them by wiping with a wet cloth, letting water set on top of the tile, setting a cold drink on it, and setting a hot drink on top.  The inks stayed put and the water wiped of easily in all the tests. The glaze spray and the pouring medium did melt when a hot drink was set on top of it however.  If you want to make coasters for cold drinks or make a back splash these would both work well.  The spray is easier to apply though.  I haven't yet found something that won't melt if it exposed to heat from boiling water.  

    Here are a couple of the other tiles that I decorated.
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    I hope that you have some fun decorating tiles either for yourself or to give as gifts this upcoming holiday season.
    Janelle

    You can view more of my art on my website: Hands and Harts

Friday, October 18, 2013

Autumn Table Runner


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    I'm going to show you how I use stencils and stamps and found objects to decorate a table runner that is perfect for autumn.
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    Various stamps and stencils that I used on this table runner.
    I started with a rectangular piece of cotton that I had snow dyed for the base.  If you are interested in reading more about snow dyeing you can find that here.  My fabric is 9" wide by 63" long. I wanted a piece that was large enough to go across a long table.
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    I sewed around the edges so that the fabric wouldn't fray when it was washed. Then I started layering with the Classic Pods stencil. I added leaf and acorn stamps around the stenciled image.  I carved these stamps myself.  I like carving my own stamps so that I don't have to worry about copyright issues and so that I can get unique stamps.  You can find the supplies to carve your own stamps here.
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    After the first layer dried, I added overlapping images next by stenciling through a piece of punchinella and stamping with the bottom of a takeout container. Found objects also make unique stencils and stamps to add more layers.
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    The last layer I added was a small leaf stamp in some of the white areas.
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    When I layer on fabric I use a mix of transparent and opaque paints to add more depth to the piece.  On my table runner I used a mix of metallic and flat paints to also add depth.  I love using the Stewart Gill Metamica paint on fabric.  It doesn't bleed, so you get crisp images and it stays soft on the fabric. I used these colors for my table runner.  Sugar Plum, Peach Blush, and Amourosa.  I also used a gold, white, and transparent brown fabric paint.  Don't forget to iron the fabric according to the directions after the paint is dry so that the table runner can be washed.
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    I love how the metallic paint catches the light.
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    I hope that you try this project and decorate your home for each season.
    You can see more of my projects at my website: http://www.handsandharts.com  This table runner is available to purchase if you would like it to grace your table.

    Janelle

Thursday, October 17, 2013

New Journal Pages

I haven't shared any of my journal pages in a while, so I thought that it would be nice to share. I have been spending most of my time getting ready to sell at a large art and craft show locally.  I have also been designing projects for Artistcellar since I am currently on their design team. I always spend some time working in my journal however.  Here are my recent pages. My journal is getting pretty full, so I will be making a new one for myself sometime soon. I hope that you enjoy this glimpse into my life. 
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I miss my grandma. She taught me a love of sewing and great family times.
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Janelle

Friday, October 11, 2013

Sun Printing With Stencils


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    I made some throw pillows this week using sun printed cloth that I created this summer.   Stencils are a wonderful way to get pattern on fabric through sun printing.  I love how throw pillows add color and make any space more cheerful.

    I used the Amiens Plan cathedral stencil, the Hemp Flower stencil and the Bodacious Pods stencil.  For the hemp flower and the pod stencil I traced the stencil onto freezer paper.  I only used part of the hemp flower stencil so that I could get individual flowers.  I traced all the lines and then cut out around the outside of each shape.  I saved these shapes for the sun printing.
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    Start with a washed piece of white piece of cotton in your desired size.  Don’t use fabric softener or dryer sheets because they will repel the paint. Keep in mind your end product, because I had to add strips of fabric to the sides of my painted fabric to make it big enough for the pillow size I wanted. They looked nice with the extra fabric strips, but if you don’t want to do extra sewing start with a larger piece of cotton.

    You have to start with transparent fabric paint for this process to work.  Opaque paint or thick paints won’t sun print.  Setacolor by Pebeo or Profab by Pro Chemical and Dye transparent fabric paints both work well.  I haven’t tried out other brands, but any thin paint should work.   Mix your paint with water (2 parts water to 1 part paint).   Place your fabric onto a plastic covered surface that you can move around.  I used a small table.  The plastic makes clean up much easier.  I anchored the plastic with bricks so that any breeze would not blow the plastic up over the fabric.

    For this next part you have to work quickly so that your fabric stays wet. I sprayed the fabric down with water so that it was very wet.

    Then I applied the fabric paint and water mixture to the fabric in the shade.  Paint the fabric with two to three colors and blend the edges.  I sprayed the fabric with extra water to make the paint blend better.
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    While the paint is very wet place your stencil or freezer paper pieces on.  I placed the freezer paper pieces in a random pattern across the fabric.  Make sure that they are pressed down and are making full contact with the fabric.
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    Then move your surface into the sun and wait for the fabric to dry.  When the fabric is dry you will have the outline of the stencil printed onto the fabric.  After the paint is completely dry, heat set the fabric with an iron.
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    Next I placed the stencil back onto the shapes on the painted fabric and traced all the inside lines of each one.
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    I placed the fabric onto a piece of white flannel that was slightly larger and pinned it down with quilting pins.  The flannel will add a slight loft the quilted piece without being too thick or puffy.  I did not use a backing fabric since this piece will be the inside of a pillow cover and won’t be seen.

    I picked a coordinating thread for each piece of fabric and free-motion quilted the shapes and the negative space.  For the cathedral I only did select lines, and for the others I followed the basic shape of the inside lines of the stencil.
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    Then I squared the quilted pieces and sewed strips onto each side.  I wanted a piece that was big enough to fit and 12” X 16” pillow form.  I added a zipper to the bottom edges of each pillow cover, so that they could be removed for cleaning.
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    Here are some links that explain how to sew a pillow cover if you want more information.

    http://www.designsponge.com/2010/03/sewing-101-zippered-throw-pillows.html

    http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2013/02/zippered-pillow-cover.html

    http://www.houseonhillroad.com/photos/put_a_zipper_in_your_pill/index.html

    Here is a link to another sun printing tutorial that explains more of the possibilities of this wonderful printing method.

    http://www.dharmatrading.com/home/sun-painting-101-a-tutorial.html?lnav=home.html

    I hope that you can find a way to brighten up your living spaces this week and maybe even make some pillows that you designed yourself.


    Have a great weekend,
    Janelle

Friday, October 4, 2013

Dreaming

     
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    I got to use the new Jane Girls Petite Series stencils this week.  I adore Jane and her art and I'm thrilled to get to use these new stencils.  I decided to use the front facing stencil to make an art quilt.  The stencil allows me to focus on the details and not worry about getting the face drawn just right.  I went back in time to my girlhood and explored the world of daydreams.  My girl is dreaming about who she could be.  Where will you allow your dreams to take you?
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    Placing the stenciled images on the fabric.
    I started with a piece of white cotton that was 16" X 34".  I divided the space into a grid and placed the stencil into each one.  I lightly drew the lines of the stencil with my Bohin mechanical extra fine marking pencil for fabric.  Then I sketched the rest of each girl.
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    I layered my batting and backing fabric and pin basted it.  I used free motion stitching and stitched over select lines of the quilt with cream colored thread to give it some form and to stabilize it for painting.
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    I used Derwent Inktense blocks and pencils to paint the quilt.  I painted in a small area with transparent textile medium and then while it was wet I used the Inktense to apply the color. Then I used more of the textile medium to blend the color.  It is possible to get a wide range of colors using this method, from very intense to very light depending on how hard you press the block on the fabric.  You can apply a light layer of color or a dark layer of color.  On my quilt the color was lighter after it dried than when it was wet.  If you want part of the painting to be more intense you can add more color while it is still wet.  It is also possible to add more layers of color after it has dried.   I went section by section until I had painted the whole quilt. After it had dried I heat set, by ironing with a dry iron each part for a couple of minutes, to make sure that the color was completely set.  Each textile medium has instructions on heat setting, so follow the guidelines for the one that you decide to use.  There is a great article in Quilting Arts Magazine, issue 64, explaining using the Derwent products on fabric in more detail.
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    After the painting was done I used more free motion stitching to make the girls come to life.  I used a mix of rayon and cotton threads.  I love the shine of the rayon threads.
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    Next I added metallic paints to highlight certain areas and to add some sparkle.  I used Stewart Gill Metamica paint and Lumiere paints by Jacquard.  I also mixed Pearl-Ex powders into textile medium and painted that in some areas.  I love adding a lot of sparkle and shine to my art, especially when I'm painting a fantasy world.  When the paint dried I heat set it according the manufacturer’s directions.  I always heat set the paint on my textile creations just in case they are ever washed.  I don’t want the paint to wash out and heat setting prevents this.
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    After all the painting and stitching were done I squared up the quilt.  I sewed a satin stitch around the edge to finish off the quilt.
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    The finished size is 15" X 33".
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    Metallic paint accents on her tail and bikini top.
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    Sparkly tiara
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    Copper in the tree trunks and on her hair
    I love that Artistcellar stencils are perfect for all kinds of art.  I can use them in my textile art as well as in my art journal.

    I hope that I inspired you to go out and make something and to allow your dreams to take you away every now and then.


    Janelle